Proud Shroud

The instrument cluster shroud on XM and XP models, in particular, is subject to a certain amount of ageing, which can detract from an otherwise maintenance free dash. Unlike the XK and XL that have an anodised aluminium surround the XM and XP instrument cluster surround is plastic with a thin aluminium coating. The aluminium coating is protected to some extent by a clear lacquer but unfortunately the original product is not able to withstand the ravages of the time or the Australian sunlight. Results of this failing can be seen as crazing around the right hand side of the cluster shroud at best and at worst the complete removal of the chrome appearance to reveal the ivory coloured plastic base of the cluster housing.

Some dubious renovations have been attempted by spraying the housing with aerosol cans of silver or chrome paint. While this process may often look better than the worn ivory coloured plastic look, it is not too hard to achieve the original finish. The hardest part is finding someone with the necessary equipment. The look-alike-chrome is obtained by placing the cluster surround in a vacuum chamber where it is given a static charge of electricity after which microscopic particles of aluminium dust are introduced into the chamber where they attach themselves to the plastic. Once the whole cluster is covered it is removed and given a coat of clear lacquer, which fixes the process. As mentioned the hard part of this job is finding someone with the vacuum chamber. Some electro platers do this kind of work, firms that repair and recondition plastic car headlight reflectors also do it and manufactures of some plastic plumbing parts use this process. Once you have found the owner of a vacuum chamber it is then a matter of talking the proprietor into taking on your job. The chances of this are greatly improved if the plastic surround requires no preparation whatsoever and this is what will be outlined in this Restoration Hint

Fig1. The look-alike-chrome shroud with the painted sections identified,
those areas not marked as painted are the clear lacquered aluminium powder.

First of all see if you can obtain more than one surround the charge for 4 or 5 will generally not be very much more than for one plus you will be able to submit the best for platting if only one is required. Things to look for when choosing the best surrounds are no broken or split fixing lugs or holes. No deep scratches, chips or heat distortion. Minimal crazing and powdering of the plastic, the area around the right hand side of the cluster shroud is where the sunlight is most constant and is particularly vulnerable.

Remove the shroud from the instrument cluster by first removing the 3 screws above the speed numbers and the 2 screws at the lower edge of the shroud that hold it to the inner metal instrument cluster housing. Once the plastic shroud is clear of the inner metal housing remove the small screws holding the black anodised aluminium backing plate from the inside of the shroud. Removal of these screws will also free the clear plastic lens with the engraved speed numbers and the red oil pressure and ignition warning lenses, leaving the ivory plastic shroud as a separate piece.

The next job is to clean away the paint and old look-alike-chrome. Commercial paint strippers cannot be used, as they will melt the plastic shroud. The best method is to soak the black and silver areas in brake fluid. While the look-alike-chrome is removed by soaking in a solution of caustic soda and warm water, about 2 litres of warm water to a cup of caustic soda.

Fig2 The raised section on the inside of the speedo window after spraying with silver paint.
The non-raised section of the window is left fake chrome.

When all the paint is removed examine the surface of the plastic for crazing and scratches and polish out any that are found. This can be done with a soft buffing wheel or a car cutting-back paste like Kitten Number 2 or Brasso. The better the finish before the vacuum chamber process the better the final finish. Scratches and crazing that are left before the application of the aluminium powder will look 10 times worse after the powder and lacquer have been applied. The areas to pay particular attention to when polishing are those not painted, see Fig 1.

Once you have the surround returned from the platers there are some final details to be applied to complete the project. The finer subtleties are the silver and black paint to the parts shown in Fig 1. Mask with tissue paper, stuck to the surround with Vaseline, the areas that do not require painting. Do not use masking tape as the adheasive will pull off the fake chrome as the tape is being removed. Then using new cans of ordinary domestic spray paints lightly paint the gloss black and larger silver parts of the surround. The reason for using new cans is to ensure the spray jet is fine and even. Spray some silver paint into the cap of the aerosol can then use a small artists paint brush to apply the silver to the inner sides of the knob name, gauge, warning light and odometer apertures. Finally polish the clear plastic speed number plate and assemble the parts into the shroud before re-fitting to the instrument cluster. If the metal cluster housing is still in the car when fitting the restored shroud, place some soft cloths over the steering column to prevent scratches to either parts.

Fig3. Tissue paper stuck to the surround with Vaseline prior to spraying the black section for the XP version.
This section is left unpainted on the XM model.

The black anodised aluminium backing plate has 2 apertures for the oil pressure and ignition lights. The location of these 2 apertures is common to all the early Falcons and the 2 slots are the same size as the apertures in the XK and XL. However the oil and ignition apertures in the plastic shroud of the XM and XP are wider than the ones in the XK and XL and when illuminated will only light the centre section of the red warning lens. You might like to file away a small section of the black anodised aluminium backing plate to correspond with the total width of aperture in the XM-XP shroud. This will enable the total area of the warning lens to be illuminated not just the centre section.

Fig4. The black section at the top of the shroud ready for spraying. Both the XM and XP were painted black in this area.

© BigH 2004

DISCLAIMER While this method has been tried and works, NO responsibility will be excepted by the Author, the Club or any of its Members.