Nothing's worse than fumbling with a large bunch of keys to find your way into the car, then go through the whole thing again to get the damn engine started. The cure to the problem is very simple, reset the locks.
Remove the locks you need to alter, bearing in mind the door and ignition keys are the same likewise so are the boot and glove-box. Also take into consideration the condition of the keys, there's no point making them all work to a worn key.
Obtain a spare door lock from the wreckers. Door locks on coupes are held with a sliding clip which is behind the door trim, while on all other early Autralian Falcons it's just under the door seal rubber adjacent to the lock.
The ignition lock can not be easily removed without the key as the cylinder has to be turned to the accessory position to align a hole in the lock face over a release pin. Pushing the pin will enable the lock to turn more anti-clockwise to a point where it will pull out.
The boot lock is held in position by a large nut, once the lock is removed the key cylinder is withdrawn by pulling out a small pin located at the opposite end to the key entrance. If necessary access to the boot can be gained by removing the rear seat backrest.
The glove-box lock has two screws holding the catch in position.
With the right key inserted the joins between the upper & lower pellets, red and blue, align with the outside diameter of the key cylinder and the key can be turned.
Begin by dismantling the spare door lock, removing the sur-clip, lever and washers from the end of the lock. Then working from the opposite end to the key entrance ease off the pellet chamber cover by twisting a small screw driver under either side-slot. This task should be carried out care fully as the cover is holding five springs which will be itching to go walkabout.
With the cover removed extract the springs. Below each spring are a pair of pellets which must also be taken out. Keep a note of which upper pellet goes with which lower pellet. The lower ones normally have a rounded point at one end to facilitate easier lifting by the key and the upper ones have a shoulder over which the spring sits. Carry out the same procedure with a lock you wish to change. This will ensure you have a good selection of pellets and springs which are common to all the locks on the car.
Select the best lockcase and clean thoroughly, run a matchstick up and down the pellet chambers to clear any muck and wipe the pellets.
With the wrong or no key inserted the joins between the upper & lower pellets misalign, pellets sitting in both the body and cylinder of the lock and is unable to be turned.
When the lock is clean insert the key you wish to match, turn it until the upper and lower pellet chambers align. Select a lower pellet which looks about the right height to fit the lower pellet chamber and drop it, point first, into the chamber closest to the key entrance. Make sure it's home by pushing it with the matchstick then gently try to turn the key. If the key will not turn the pellet is too long, so try a shorter one.
If the key does turn insert the upper pellet, shoulder out. Place and hold a spring in the same chamber as both pellets and try to turn the key again,
If the key turns that set of pellets is right for that position so remove them noting the chamber number and do the same for the other chambers one chamber at a time.
If the key does not turn the lower pellet is too short in which case file the non-pointed end of the slightly longer pellet trying it until the key turns. It’s worthwhile sizing all the chambers before starting any filing.
When all the pairs of pellets work individually replace all five pairs together and while holding in their springs try turning the key. If the key turns freely, lubricate with very light grade oil and replace the cover. Some pellet may need a second look especially if the cylinder is badly worn.
© BigH 1994
DISCLAIMER
While this method has been tried and works, NO responsibility will be excepted by the Author, the Club or any of its Members.
