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The outside door handle's pushbutton goes in but won't come out and the key turns in the lock but won't flick down the plunger on the windowsill or even worse you can't even push the door lock plunger down from inside the car. All due to old dried grease gumming up the works in the door catch mechanisms. In most cases it's an easy fix the hardest part is getting the little critter out from inside the door, especially the front doors. With the window in the up position remove the inside door and window winder handles, the armrest and the trim panel. Then remove the clip that holds the outside lock and the lock itself. Also remove the L shaped bracket that determines the lower point of the window decent and the bolt below the catch, which holds the tail of the bailey channel to the door. If you're not familia with the above check out Restoration Hint 'Getting into Felt and Rubber part 2'. Remove the metal trim-retaining strip, that runs along the top of the trim, from the door and the screw concealed behind the strip that holds a small clip on the door handle control connecting rod. Unscrew the plastic plunger knob from the inside locking connecting rod. Then remove the two sets of 3 screws that hold the inner door handle and the catch to the door. Gently pull the lower end of the freed bailey channel away from the catch and allow the catch to fall into the lower part of the door. Before removing it from the door completely disconnect the door handle control connecting rod, which is secured with a small clip. Hint: Don't loose the clip. The rear doors are slightly easier as the bailey channel is located away from the catch. The main problems are worn and/or old dry grease clogged parts, so a careful check is required. The way it is supposed to work is outlined here with the aid of Fig 1. The blue part is the release lever controlled by the outside
door-pushbutton and the yellow part is the release controlled by the
inside door-handle.
Fig.1 Three views of the driver's side catch, looking into the car, looking to the rear, looking out. When the door is closed the latch-cog is engaged in the cog-rack mounted on the doorframe of the car. The door is unable to open as the latch- cog is being prevented from turning by the ratchet claw engaged in the ratchet wheel. This position is maintained by pressure on a lug on the ratchet claw from a spring mounted on the main pivot.Fig1 No1 The lug protrudes through a much larger hole in the outside release lever, which allows the ratchet claw to move independently. Movement of either the outside release lever or the inside handle control connecting rod and pivot 3, in the direction of arrows A and C will remove the claw from the ratchet and allow the latch-cog to turn and the door to open. Closing the door will cause the ratchet wheel to turn in the opposite direction and the claw will click over the teeth on the ratchet wheel. The lock is engaged by either pushing down the plunger inside the car in which case the locking control connecting rod travels in the direction of arrow B and the locking lever flips in the position shown in pink.Fig1. The other method for locking is with the key from outside in which case the locking lever flips up as a result of being lifted with the key lock-cam that engages the locking cam-slot. The locking lever flips between either position with the aid of a small spring below the lever. Seen to the left of the locking lever pivot.. Fig1 No2 It can also be seen that the action of moving the locking lever to the locked position prevents the outside door release lever from pivoting and subsequently disengaging the ratchet claw. It should also be noted that opening the door from the inside of the car when locked, causes the ratchet claw lever to push the locking lever into the unlocked position. Likewise closing an open door which is in the locked position will cause the cog-latch and ratchet wheel to turn forcing the claw to press against the locking lever flipping it to the unlocked position. After cleaning all the old grease, check for worn and misaligned parts. If the catch was hard to lock it could be the locking lever pivot is worn Fig1 No2 causing the folded end of the lever not to slide over the outside release lever. To overcome this problem adjusts the overlap by bending the flange on the locking lever. If the pushbutton was sticking the removal of old dry grease will have cured this problem. There is a chance that a non returning pushbutton could be caused buy missing or broken springs, check the floor of the inside of the door it may have fallen there. Failing that it's a case of into the salvage bin to find another. Fortunately the spring shapes are common to both left and right catches. Finally lubricate with a light oil and replace in reverse order. Hint: Before fitting the door-trim, slide the door handle's retaining clip clear of the shaft hole and try opening, closing and locking the door from inside and out, if all is working as it should only then replace the trim and handles properly. Note: This hint is for the 1960 to 1966 XK to XP non-coupe door catch. DISCLAIMER While this method has been tried and works, NO responsibility will be excepted by the Author, the Club or any of its Members.
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